Photographing Pipeline is so much more than capturing the magnitude of the wave Pipeline is. It is honoring a sacred place with rich history and significance. Known for its large, hollow, and fast-breaking waves, Pipeline is one of the most iconic and dangerous surf breaks in the world. Surfing, or heʻe nalu in Hawaiian, has long been tied to spiritual practice and the god Kanaloa, and Pipeline sits at the heart of that tradition. Legends like Phil Edwards and Mike Diffenderfer pioneered surfing here, with Edwards famously riding the first wave at Pipeline in 1961—his powerful style earning him the nickname "The Guayule Kid." Legendary surf filmmaker Bruce Brown captured this wave at Pipeline, and it is in his movie Surfing Hollow Days. Later on, Gerry Lopez revolutionized barrel riding and became the master of Pipeline during his time. Due to Gerry Lopez and many other talented surfers conquering the wave, Pipeline became the forefront of shortboard wave riding, similarly to how Malibu became the forefront of longboarding at the time.

As an ocean lifeguard and experienced surfer from California, Pipeline still deeply intimidated me. I had never witnessed waves with such raw power and deep history. After ocean training and studying the waves, I felt ready to put on my DaFin’s and swim out there with my Nikonos V film camera. Being inside that environment, hearing and feeling the strength of the wave, and being surrounded by photographers and surfers I have always looked up to meant so much to me. I have deep respect for this wave and the people who surf it, and I want that to be evident in my photography of the Pipeline.